Milan Men’s Collections A/W 2010

16日からミラノ・メンズ・コレクション(Milan Men’s Collections)が開催され、初日にショーを行ったバーバリー・プローサム(Burberry Prorsum)、シーピーカンパニー(C.P. Company)、コスチュームナショナル(Costume National)、ドルチェ&ガッバーナ(Dolce & Gabbana)、エンポリオ・アルマーニ(Emporio Armani)、エルメネジルド・ゼニア(Ermenegildo Zegna)のなかから3ブランドをピック。

まず、ジル・サンダー、テイスト的には毎シーズン変わりないが、拘りをもったディテール&パターン技術。実際に手にしなくてもジル・サンダーならではのシルエットはなんとなく分かるもの。そして、毎シーズン”トゥーシャイニー”なイメージのドルガバ。今回の秋冬はモノトーン系の色が目立ち、特に気になったのは下記写真にもあるレギンス。そして、バーバリー・プローサムのなんとも言えないコレクション。どう解釈するかは「なんとも言えない」読者次第とでも言おう。それよりも、プラダとヴィヴィアン・ウエストウッドのコレクションが楽しみだ。

ドルチェ&ガッパーナのコレクション(HERE)、バーバリー・プローサム コレクション(HERE)。

(Photos from top – Jill Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry Prorsum.

Milan’s men’s collections have kicked of the season in quite predictable style. For the past few seasons in both men’s and women’s fashion we have gotten used to sharp cuts, lots of tailoring, slim silhouettes. So fashion houses reaction to the current economic atmosphere is no surprise, a return to basics. Nowhere did this more than Dolce & Gabbana who were celebrating their 10th anniversary in menswear with a collection that utilized almost every model in town (well, those who have a bit of muscle). If you look at the S/S 2010 campaign (here) you will see that the Dolce man hasn’t altered much over the past few months. In fact the campaign for the current season could easily be used again for A/W 2011 so little has what’s been presented changed or developed in any way. Jill Sander was as Jill Sander is, as was Armani. As if reacting to the Arctic Winter that has gripped much of Europe, Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey declared war on next Winter’s seasonal elements, delighting with aviator jackets, trench coats and trend setting boots. Bailey made a style statement as well as giving us something that was suitable to wear in the colder months.

You can view the Burbery Prorsum Men’s 2010 runway show online HERE and the Dolce and Gabbana Men’s 2010 collection HERE.